Yeah, I was lucky enough to get the window back up ~1 hour ago and unplugged the harness to the rear motor by doing what you just stated to avoid the window going back down. Good thing is the window is back up now, bad thing is the wiper and rear defroster won't work anymore since I'm assuming the ECU thinks the window is down without any power to it.

Need to get in there with a multimeter and test at different points, sorry not much fun at all. Sounds like you have a short around the tailgate area if I was to guess.

Is there a computer board in the hatch that could've gone bad?

Yeah, I just have it unplugged for now, almost winter time. I need to ask for help from someone more knowledgeable on electronics, I wanted to see if I could just cover up some of those pins on the diagram posted on the first page of the rear window motor that controls the windows up + down function and just have it plugged in so the defroster and wiper works.

There is a rear ECU in the back, I think it's around $300 or so and don't want to replace it if that's not the problem, which I'm not sure of right now.

Something else to look at could be the window regulator. I just replaced one on a Dodge. Hope you get it worked out or have it fixed. Only thing I can suggest is to take the rear panel off and start looking around at connections. Then just process of elimination unfortunately.

Do you know of an easy way to just block or cover certain pins? Is there a rubber or some other material that would slip over the connection and still allow it to be plugged in? Only other way I was thinking was cutting the wires that control the window up/down function, but if that doesn't work, I'll have to repair it back, not that difficult, but would rather leave it as-is if there's an easier way.

Most any connector can be "de-pinned" meaning there's a small tab/s bent up on the metal pin that locks the pin into the plastic connector housing, to remove a certain pin all you have to do is slip a very small screwdriver/s into the connector in such a way to push down the tab/s and then the pin still attached to the wire will pull out of the connector, they make special tools for de-pinning but I usually use a jeweler's screwdriver/s and it will take a bit of trying to get it just right on getting the tab/s to push/bend down enough to release the pin fron the connector, if you get the pin out then you can simply tape up the pin/wire until you can find the issue, if you get it all figured out then the pin can be re-inserted back into the connector, the tab/s may have to be bend back up again for it to lock inside the connector.


You can look online for tools to do this and also write-ups and or videos on seeing it done.

Here's a set of various tools use for de-pinning.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078R21FGL...5-610ced5a0a0a

I agree with this you can usually take the pins out from the back of the plug or the front (pin side). For example, I have one that's a small hollow tube (the hole diameter is only about 1 mm) that's got a handle like a screwdriver it slips over the pin then you push and pull it out the back. But some have tabs in the back of the plug as mentioned. I use small screwdrivers or dental picks for theses. Once the pin is out cover it, don't leave it hanging to short out just to be safe.

Thank you Gaber6. This was exactly my problem. I rolled down the glass to load groceries this morning because the hatch was frozen closed and then couldnt roll it back up.

T4R.org comes through again!

I know this is a very old thread, but you are an absolute life saver! I was getting ready to leave for work, and take my son back to his moms. The rear window would not come up, and we are expecting rain the next couple of days. I tried everything, including disconnecting the battery, but nothing worked. After searching and finding your post, sure enough, the window lock button was pressed! Thank you again.